Sunday 21 December 2014

A Vienna Christmas: Frohe Weihnachten.

It is Christmas time in Vienna. The city-centre is a spectacular site. Most of the people visiting the Christmas markets are busily drinking 'punsch glühwein', or mulled wine.

City Hall.



A tram passes City Hall

 


Stretch-limo passes City Hall

Busy shopping street with Stephensdom in background
Shoppers on Mariahilfer Srasse


Horses and Carriage in Mickaelerplatz.

Mickaelerplatz.


Christmas Shoppers.

Cured meat stall.


Christmas market outside City Hall.
Tram stops in front of city hall.

Happy Christmas.

Saturday 29 November 2014

1989. The End of the Cold War. 25 Years on.



The End of the Cold War

Twenty five years ago this November, the Berlin Wall was torn down and with it, the Iron Curtain fell, and the communist Bloc countries found themselves a bit freer. Many of countries then looked to the West for their ideas. One of the consequences for education in these countries was that Russian was dropped at schools and English replaced it as a foreign language.


 
1956 Hungarian revolt
 




I found a reminder of these historic events the other day in a central street in Vienna. An artist from Ukraine, Mykola Bilart, exhibited the following tailor’s dummies to the title ‘Europe Wake Up!’ Many of the dummies mention previous dates, such as 1956 and 1968 when attempts made by Hungary and Czechoslovakia to become free of Soviet influence failed.






1989 Czechoslovakia
                                                                                 
1968 Czech revolt










End of Russian Involvement in afghanistan
Poland 1989


 
When Churchill made his famous ‘Iron Curtain’ speech in 1946 in Fulton, Missouri, USA, he included Austria as behind the curtain (communist controlled), probably not knowing himself which way Austria would fall. Vienna was mentioned in the written version, but if you watch a spoken version he didn’t mention Vienna as being behind the curtain.


As you can see Bilart’s works of art represent the various Eastern Bloc countries and the dates of counter-revolutions which date 25 years ago this month. 
 How does Vienna and Austria fit into the story? Well, the Russians ‘liberated’ Vienna, in 1945 (see the photos below of Denkmal der Roten Armee (Red Army Memorial) in Schwarzbergenplatz commemorating this. 


Red Army Soldier
Commermoration of Liberation of Vienna

 
Schwartzbergenplatz
Schwarzbergenplazt







































It was only in 1955 that they agreed to leave Vienna, along with the Allied forces (France, the UK and the USA . The Russians’ (led by foreign minister Molotov of cocktail fame) condition was that Austria declare themselves a neutral country, similar to its neighbour, Switzerland.

However, yet again the Austria, proved to be the eastern border of Western Europe. Austria accepted aid from the US backed Marshall Plan and in 1955, (negotiated on behalf of the Soviet Union, by Molotov, of the cocktail fame) with allied and Soviet support, Austria declared itself to be neutral, similar its neighbour, Switzerland.

If you look at a map of Europe, you can see that Austria, and particularly Vienna, was surrounded on three sides by Communist countries (Czechoslovakia, Hungary, Yugoslavia). In fact, it was the opening of the border between Hungary and Austria, that encouraged East Germans to escape to Western Germany and, pre-empting the fall of the Berlin Wall by 5 months.

One interesting titbit of history, is that four key players in WW2 and the subsequent Cold War (Adolph Hitler, Tito, Trotsky and Stalin were all in Vienna in 1913 and very possibly crossed paths in the famous cafés. (One of these, the Café Central, will be talked about later in this blog).



Ukranian artist Mykola Bilart (wearing beret).

  




You can see the artist himself here.


He believes that present day Ukraine is in a similar battle to the former communist Bloc countries and hence the title ‘Wake Up Europe!’.








 Sources.
Kühnhart, A. 2009. The Fall of the Berlin Wall and European Integration https://www.google.es/#q=the%20fall%20of%20the%20berlin%20wall%20and%20european%20integration%20ludger%20k%C3%BChnhardt Last accessed 29/11/2014



Tarr, R. 2011. Churchill’s ‘Iron Curtain speech’.
Last accessed 29/11/2014

History Beta. 2013. Vienna, Austria and the Iron curtain
Last accessed 29/11/2014

Fordham University. N.D. Modern History Sourcebook: Winston S. Churchill:
‘Iron Curtain Speech’, March 5, 1946
Last accessed 29/11/2014

Sunday 9 November 2014

Vienna Allotments after almost 100 years.




Kleingartens (Small gardens).
Zukunft auf der Schmeltz
(The Future on the Schmeltz)

There are 659 allotment plots on the old parade ground.
  


During WW1 food was short in Vienna and 'Kriegsgemüsefelden' (War vegetable fields and 'Kleingarten' (small gardens) were encouraged. After the WW1 in 1918, food remained  in Vienna was in short supply and there were many unemployed soldiers and many underused military facilities. 


Radezky Infantry Barracks from the Kleingartens.

Fieldmarshall Radetzky Commemorated.




Der Schmultz, had been a military parade ground, where the famous Field Marshall Josef Graf Radetsky, viewed his trooped as they marched to the waltz written for him by Strauss the Elder (supposedly written to prevent Strauss the younger being enlisted in the army). 
A pleasant small house on an allotment in front of the Radetzky barracks.








Gardeners associations were formed and when Austria became a republic Der Schmeltz became property of the Republic, which rented out the land to the associations.









Mouths were fed, and military hardware was made way for the ploughshare. The hundreds of families who were able to feed themselves on the Schmeltz started to enjoy the summers on their allotments. 





 

There was fresh air and plants and trees and many families decided to build little huts for shelter on those warm summer nights. A holiday in the city. 


Some of the the huts became more substantial and, 15 years ago, it became legal to build on 30m2 of the plots. It is interesting how often the law follows the practice of what people were already doing!

 
So where are the vegetables?

Perfect for summer! Note flats in the background.
                       All sorts of modern wooden, brick, glass and concrete tiny house gems!

A row of tiny houses.
At the weekends people come to visit and ogle the tidy little gardens, (no longer vegetables, but flowers) and the beautiful tiny houses, which perhaps are lived in for more than the summer months.It is very pleasant to stroll alongside the tiny houses and gardens on a sunny winter's day.

Tiny houses at the edge of der Schmeltz.

A modest wooden house.

Now, all over Vienna, there are thousands of tiny holiday houses, built on tiny plots, next to one another. They encourage a return to nature, in the city, neighbourliness and civic pride.

Sunday 12 October 2014

Lange Nacht der Museen 2014



Lange Nacht der Museen 2014


One ticket to enter them all.
Last Saturday  4 October, was the Long Night of the Museums here in Vienna.
The deal was, that for the price of entry to one museum, you could go to many, and at night to boot. The centre of Vienna was full of people, both native and not, families with children and adults milling, queuing, wandering and gazing at a huge selection of museums. Many of these put on something special, which wasn’t normally available if you went during the day. We went and enjoyed ourselves. Here are mini-reports on four places.

Albertina Museum. Entrance is from first floor.

      Albertina Museum, (Albertinaplatz 1)                                                                                                   This is an important museum specializing in ‘modern’ art Impressionism, Modernism and Cubism. The temporary exhibition was Joan Miro, and the permanent Exhibition the Batlinger Collection: Monet to Picasso, plus, to add to the a Spanish flavor, live Flamenco music, dancing and singing. 

My verdict:             
Did I have a good time?                                                                      
Yes.
 If I had known what was in the Albertina, would I have gone?          
Probably not. There are better collections of these painters’ works in Paris, London, Madrid and Barcelona. The music was fun and very good, despite the Flamenco artists being from Slovakia and Poland.
Flamenco from Slovakia
Would I recommend the Albertina to people with little time to visit museums in Vienna? 
No. However, there is a Giacometti exhibition coming up soon. I like his work. And the building is spectacular.
Alberto Giacometti sculpture.




·        Demel Bakery and Café (Kohlmarkt, 14).
This is one of the great Viennese cafés, with a famous cake (small, chocolaty and round). It rivals the famous Sacher torte.

Public outdoor Demel cake making
Stirring the Demel chocolate.

We queued for 40 or so minutes to see the Café museum. The café was closed for the evening, but the staff were making fresh cakes And coffee to take away, and showing the Lange Nacht visitors around.This was a surprisingly small café. The museum was small, but interesting with unusual cakes made for special occasions.
Verdict: An interesting place. We will return when the café is open to have our Demel cake and coffee! It just didn’t seem right to eat the cake as a takeaway snack!

Inside Demel bakery.



Verdict: 
An interesting place. We will return when the café is open to have our Demel cake and coffee! It just didn’t seem right to eat the cake as a takeaway snack!
  Stephansdom 'Steffi' (St Stephen's Cathedral) Stephansplatz
Centrepiece of Dúrer Triptych.
 
The main aisle of Stephensdom.
 

·        There was a small queue. We walked up the many steps at front of the cathedral to see some statues, silver and gold treasures, cassocks and artwork, as well as the view down the aisle.  

 
Triptych of Über Saint Veit (1507)
Verdict:
For me the highlight was the Dúrer triptych, but there were many things we couldn't see at night. 'Steffi' is worth returning to.


Mozarthaus. Domgasse 5
 (Sorry, no photos.)

This was the Mozart family address for three years 1784-1787. Here the composer wrote ‘the Marriage of Figaro’. The house was big, but his apartment was smaller. 

Perhaps I was tired, but the exhibits, based on the times and other composers of the times, especially  Salieri and Haydn didn't enthuse me that much. 

Verdict: 
Would I visit it at normal times? No. There really isn’t enough to warrant a visit.  But I would go to a concert there. 




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